There has been a lot of press coverage as of late, both domestically here in France and internationally, about the “gilet jaunes” activity the past couple of weekends. While most of the news outlets have splashed dramatic pictures across the headlines, the experience of most of us here in Paris has varied from disconcerting to inconvenient to amusing (and literally everything in between).  Why? Because, to date, the areas impacted by the “manifestations” has been confined to known areas and people have planned accordingly.

There is no denying that the first weekend of demonstrations took many by surprise.  Some friends mine were held up in blocked traffic along the “peripherique,” resulting in a day of cancelled plans.  In chatting with them later that evening about the experience, they laughed that they at least had snacks as they waited for traffic to move again.  Rebecca DeFraites, one of AWG’s former Presidents and previous contributor to this blog, found herself in for a much longer Saturday walk to and from the American Library than anticipated. In an email to friends and family about the experience, she wrote:

“It’s only about an hour walk -- just on this side of the Eiffel Tower. It was colder than I expected but all went well until I got to the Assemblée Nationale metro stop.  It was blocked by police in riot gear. And there was a large group of protesters coming towards them. My route was blocked…. (but) I was, however, able to detour around Napoleon’s tomb at Invalides and make it to the library in an hour and a half.  I’m not sure why I felt compelled to get five hard-backed books. Given the uncertain transportation options, this was not a wise move. Neither the 63 nor the 87 buses were running due to les blocages. By the time I had walked another mile and made it to the train at Invalides, it was packed, and I was shoulder to shoulder with bewildered tourists and “gilets jaunes,” the protesters in their yellow fluorescent vests who were evidently through for the day.  But me ‘n my books made it home in one piece. All is well.”

Another one of our AWG members had a little more adventurous (and unfortunate) Saturday when taking her seventy-seven year old mother, who was in town, on a tour of some of the major sites.  As Rebecca further noted in her email:

“Her mom wished to see the Arc de Triomphe which, of course, marks the beginning of the Champs Elysees.  Which is where the bulk of the protesters were. Which was a much worse idea than my deciding to sling five hard-backed books halfway across Paris.  Her mother got slightly tear- gassed. While this would constitute an adventure in almost anyone’s book, I don’t think it was in their plans.”

Life in this picture-perfect city took a turn for the surreal when the manifestations of this past weekend took a turn for the worse. Tear gas floated past the windows of AWG’s President Sharon Nossiter, who lives just over a block from Place Madeleine.  The sounds of sirens ran constant for nearly eight hours throughout the day as police and emergency services sought to respond to escalating activity. Unfortunately, some of our members who live near where the manifestations were staged saw first hand just how quickly things can turn and, if they do, how serious and scary things can become, warranting the need for enforcement.  It goes without saying that watching the television news cover the burning and overturning of cars with response of tear gas and smoke bombs in your own neighborhood is disconcerting at best. One of our members in the impacted areas went out to see what was going on in her neighborhood after seeing news reports, only to quickly return a because the tear gas was too strong. Another one of our members, who was thankfully out of town for the weekend, returned on Sunday to find that their wrought-iron gates had been knocked down and people had entered the property and carted away a sculpture from the front steps. She lives on the ground floor so none of us can imagine how scary it would have been if she was home when this was going on.  Walking through these neighborhood the next day and finding broken display windows and vandalized ATMs is an on-going reminder of the potential for violence, a potential that hits a little too close to home for our members who live in these central areas.

Personally, I found myself chuckling while running errands in my own neighborhood of Villiers as the local French seem unfazed by the sounds of tear gas bombs sounded every few minutes, echoing from the activity in Place Madeleine and Champs Elysees not even a twenty minute walk away.  Of course they were unfazed, demonstrations, strikes, and protests are simply a fact of European life - although, admittedly, rarely do tensions get that high, at least not in Paris. I, then, laughed to myself about the nonchalance with which I, too, was taking in everything.

Why was I so calm?  Was I becoming so French?  No, that surely couldn’t be it.  Afterall, I did cancel on plans I had that evening to join some Australian expat friends who were having dinner at that very moment on Saint Honore, choosing instead to snuggle in from the cold that evening rather than cross the known path of the manifestations just a few blocks away.  It occured to me that that was the reason. I, like my French neighbors sipping on their cafes and vin chaud in the brasserie on the corner, had known there would be activity that day. And, when it turned violent, I also knew where to avoid. I knew both because of the local news but because I had received a “Demonstration Alert” from the US Embassy the day before that included: (1) the expected areas to be impacted; (2) proposed actions to take; and (3) how to monitor the activity.  I felt prepared. And because I felt prepared, I was able to stay calm.

All of this is to say that, yes, these are turbulent times but the information is out there to help you plan; help you stay safe and avoid unintentionally walking into trouble; to help you keep calm and carry on.  

Well, Monoprix has started putting out Christmas decorations so it must be the holiday season.  Before turning to all of the things that Christmas entails (the decorations, the gifts, the food or all of the food!), we have Thanksgiving this week to prepare (eek!) and prepare!  So, who better to turn to for tips and advice for preparing this week's meal, advice that I know we will be using time and time again as we go through the holiday season, than our Chef in Residence, Veronique Bawol.  For those of you who do not know, Veronique Bawol not only hosts several wonderful activities passing on her culinary skills to our members but also the owner / founder of Cuisine Elegante.  Whether you are looking to do something special with friends visiting in from out of town or just want to pick up some new culinary tricks, check out her company or grab her at one of the upcoming meetings or activities.  A note that Veronique actually wrote of this blog last week for posting but I have been remiss in getting this out to you, so my apologies both Veronique who so graciously obliged my request for a holiday cooking blog entry and to you, our wonderful member readers if my delay has cost you any yummy goodness on Thursday!  Also, please note that we will be posting a series of blogs with tips for the holidays over the coming weeks.  If you have any specific questions you want answered, just shoot me an email at awgvpcomms@gmail.com!

As a French woman married to an American, Thanksgiving was one of the big culinary discoveries for me. I remember being impressed by the amount of preparation and work that went into the meal my sister-in-law made for our family. It was truly a feast. So when my husband asked me if I could make a Thanksgiving meal for our American and French friends the year after, I was a bit nervous.

First of all, my kitchen was very small. Then it’s not so easy to find all of the ingredients that go into the American meal in Paris. Turkey is not a staple of French cuisine except occasionally for Christmas, and you can’t find Butterballs in frozen food section of Parisian grocers.  But I worked to find what I needed, or come up with French substitutes.

The most important part of the puzzle was the Turkey, but I found a butcher who told me that he could order a turkey and make sure it was the size I needed, so that was a relief. When I went to pick it up the night before our party, I went to see the butcher, who presented me with two small birds instead of a turkey. When I asked what was going on, he said that they couldn’t find any turkeys, so was giving me two guinea fowl instead!

I was furious, but had no choice so left with the two small birds, which I did my best to stuff and cook. Everyone was very surprised by the presentation, but had a good laugh when I told them the story, and it was one of my most memorable Thanksgivings.

Needless to say, since then I have found a wonderful butcher who knows where to find the best turkeys available.  Not only that, but if you don’t have the time or the right oven to cook it, they will cook it for you so all you have to do is take the credit. It’s a very busy shop, so my advice is to go there in person at least a week before to order your bird, and pick it up the day before your meal (Les Viandes du Champ de Mars, 122 rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 75007)

For the vegetables, I always find that the best and the freshest are to be found in the open air markets that are a fixture of Parisian life. My favorite is the Marché Saxe-Breteuil. My favorite stand there is called the Bar Aux Saveurs, who specialize in many kinds of vegetables (sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, turnips, parsnips, pumpkins and potimarrons, butternuts squash and colorful carrots and beetroots, many kinds of onions, herbs, fresh sage), that are forgotten strains and varieties, all authentic and probably closer to the kinds of vegetables the Pilgrims ate than the modern produce you find at most other stands. Magalie is the owner, is passionate about her products and is used to helping Americans get ready for the big meal. (Marché Saxe/Breteuil, Avenue Saxe, Paris 75007, Thursday and Saturdays mornings)

Otherwise (Marché Président Wilson, Avenue du President Wilson 75016 Paris which is amazing too, Wednesdays and Saturdays mornings)

For the aluminum cooking pan, I go to Real Mac Coy, I get fresh cranberry at the fruits and vegetables stalls on rue cler, they already have some. You will find anything you need at The Real Mac Coy, 194 rue de Grenelle 75007 Paris (Giffy corn bread, cranberry  jelly, but watch out, it’s quite expensive!) If you have a car, Costco is an option or La Grande Epicerie Paris 38 rue de Sévres 75007 Paris has also a US section.

For my stuffing, I order XXL pain de mie, the one restaurants use for their « Croque-Monsieur ». I order them at Nelly Julien 85 rue St Dominique 5 days before and I buy my corn flour at Bio c’est Bon or Naturalia (they are all over Paris)

I probably forgot something but will be happy to answer your questions if you need any help.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Watch those wallets during the Black Friday / Cyber Monday sales (yes, I have already started stocking my online cart!)

The Fall is a time when we naturally see a number of new expats make the move to Paris.  The process of moving to Paris is one thing. The process of making it a home, or at the least feel comfortable is quite another.  Knowing that many of our members are not just new to AWG but new to Paris, I have been thinking quite a lot about this process and what to write, being a relative newbie myself.  Almost at the very same time, I received an email from one of our long-time members inquiring into the blog and I thought, “I bet our new members would find it helpful, or at the very least reassuring, to hear the thoughts / advice / experiences of some of our members who have established their lives here.  I know I would.” 

And, so, this entry is courtesy of Rebecca DeFraites.

Rebecca has been a member of AWG Paris since 2005.  She is intimately familiar with the organization, having served on the Board from 2006 until 2018, having served as VP Activities, VP Membership, our FAWCO rep and President.  She is continuing to serve American women living abroad, now serving at Membership Chair of FAWCO. She just celebrated her “expat anniversary” on October 1st, the date on which she, 14 years ago, signed a lease and officially moved to Paris.  Needless to say, she has navigated quite a few waters, administrative and personal alike here in Paris!

I hope you enjoy her entry as much as I do and welcome any other of our long-time members to offer their words of advice for future postings.

“Our VP Communications asked me to write briefly about my first year here and what was hard about “fully transitioning.”  Fully transitioning? I gave that up that rêve a long time ago. I am an American in every cell (cellule) in my body and will always be.  That being said, I often gauge my current degree of Frenchness by what I am wearing and my day’s activities. Hmm, today -- French top, French skirt, French tights, French (sensible) shoes and OMG -- today I am wearing French underwear!  My scarf I bought in the US to celebrate the 300^th anniversary of New Orleans, arguably still at least marginally French.  I had lunch with two fellow Americans at Le Bistro Perigord, a charming inexpensive restaurant near Notre Dame.

This evening I am going to my local gallery to celebrate the PACS (civil union) of two neighbors, one French and one American.  French will be spoken. I will understand a third of it. I will beg people to speak doucement, doucement s’il vous plait (it seems to go over better asking people to speak sweetly rather than to speak lentement. I don’t know why.  Ask Véronique Bawol at her next cooking class; Véro speaks excellent French).

I would characterize this as a one foot in each continent kind of day which, after fourteen years, is more typical than not.

The first year was just flat-out hard.  I did not join AWG until after the first year.  Like many voluntary ex-pats, I was going to do full integration.  I would make only French friends. This did not work exceedingly well.  I did know French people from our various trips here over the years but, well, at the end of the day they were just so French.   I spent a good deal of time feeling lonesome and talking to my family in the US even though I was married to a fully cooperative American husband.

I am not what I call a “love ex-pat,” that is, someone who falls in love with a French man and decides to stay.  Member-at-large, Sara Sautin is a long-term love ex-pat having been married to “Jeff,” whose actual name is Jean-Francois, for more than forty years.  I was also not a “trailing spouse,” as many AWG members are. When I later became president of AWG Paris, I had two trailing spouses on my board. They were both MBA’s.  Needless to say, it was a pretty high-powered bunch.

In my later work with AWG and FAWCO, I have come to realize that everyone’s first year is hard.  Imagining myself a trail-blazer (and yes, of course I was going to write a book), I had no idea how predictably I was behaving.

The most important integrational event that first year was to BUY A CADDIE.

In those days, French people were not nearly as willing to speak English as they are now.  My landlord, for example, an elderly professor of endocrinology with those wonderful French old-man eyebrows which old American men just don’t have, reported to me once that, despite twelve years of English in school, he was afraid to speak it.  He didn’t want to look like an idiot. I’m thinking, Jean-Claude, you’re an esteemed professor of endocrinology -- no one could possibly think you an idiot. But, to this day, I have never heard him speak a word of English.

But, to the caddie.  I knew they are practical.  I knew they are a necessity.  I don’t own a car. But I thought I’d look like a little old lady in rolled-down socks if I actually rolled one along the Boulevard St. Germain.  But my back was giving out and I’m not even sure if you could get your groceries delivered back then. I had scouted out a place to get one. I was going to go to the BHV.  I girded my loins. I made it to the Caddie Department. I probably said I wanted a poussette which used to mean caddie but now means baby carriage. I had to answer way too many questions -- did Madame want it pliant ou non-pliant?  I decided I wanted it be folding. And how many liters did Madame require? How the hell should I know? I think in gallons and quarts, not liters. I ended up with a forty-liter folding purple caddie. I felt silly wheeling it across the Seine from the BHV.  But, after its first trip to the Monoprix, we fell in love. That purple caddie wore out a decade ago. My current caddie was inherited from an AWG member who was repatriated. It is a nondescript brown and is fifty liters. It holds more and is sturdier. But, as I write this, I realize that buying that purple caddie, in French (!) and then actually rolling it along the Boulevard St. Germain, was the absolute highlight of my first year.  It was also the first day I got asked for directions by a French person. That was also pretty cool.”

• What are the questions you found yourself asking (or are currently asking) as expats? For example: Were you absolutely blown away by the process for getting an apartment here?  Did you walk out your front door the first Sunday you were here only to wonder what would be open?
• What’s the best piece of advice / recommendation / lesson that you learned as you navigated either life in Paris or expat life (either here in Paris or elsewhere) more generally? For example: How did you make your first French friend?  What words of advice would you have for adapting to cultural norms here?  Or, even, what tricks do you have to handle jet lag if / when you go back and forth overseas?
  

No matter where you are from, there is just something about September.  I can remember as a little girl how excited I would be during this time.  I would go with my parents to get “back to school” supplies and perhaps even a couple of new outfits to start the new school year on the right foot.  It was always a time of excitement and, for me, feels much more like the “new year” than January 1st. As I have gotten older, I still feel that sense of excitement but also struggle at times with getting back into the groove of things.  After a summer of slower work hours and weekends on the beach, I have found it hard to focus and do all that invariably needs to be done during the month.

This is my first September in Paris.  Having moved here in October of 2017, it marks the completion of my first full year in this beautiful city that has presented its fair share of challenges.  And, it is my first Rentree. Back in the States, this time of year is reserved almost exclusively for kids, students, and parents sending their kids back to school.  I absolutely love that, here in France, there is a recognition that this time of year is a period of adjustment - or readjustment - for everyone. I have heard everyone from children to parents to professionals to businesses say to me and others “Bonne Rentree!,” wishing a smooth easing back into the daily life.  

With this in mind, I thought I would share some thoughts and tips for how to make this just that.

Celebrate the Month - and the Adjustment - as the French Do

As I mentioned, this is my first introduction to the term Rentree, what it means and what it entails. As I was researching what this time of year means to the French, scouring the internet in the wee hours of the morning, as I am wont to do when I can’t sleep, I came upon the website of one of our own AWG members, Jennifer Hamerman. She wrote last year in her blog, Mama Loves Paris, all about this time of year and how to celebrate with the French. Whether this is your first Rentree or 6th (as in her case), make sure to check it out to help you understand a bit more about this time of year.

More than anyway, this is a great time of year to embrace the world around you, to understand it, and to feel like home. We noted some of these in our most recent newsletter, but a couple of events that will help you ease back into understanding the rhythm and life of Paris are:

Jazz a la Villette (August 30-September 9) - Need an unwind after work begins to hit you hard?  This is a nice way to take in some of the best Jazz artists from all over the world (Paris does have a long history in the music after all) and get a refresh / shot of musical energy for the next day.

Paris Design Week (September 6-September 15) - Looking to add something fresh for the “new year” to your home or for inspiration for such?  This is the perfect place to do it, known for identifying trends before they hit the mainstream market.

Les Journees des Patrimoine (September 15-September 16) - For one weekend a year, historically relevant sites all over the country open up their doors, including many that are not open otherwise to the public.  This is an opportunity to begin to understand the history of the country, and its values, that you now call home.

Fete de la Gastronomie (September 21-September 23) - France's gastronomy is classed by UNESCO as an 'intangible cultural heritage of humanity' so it makes sense that this month includes a celebration of it.

Finding Your Pace Again

I don’t know about you but no matter how healthy I am, how good my regime is, it somehow always falls off in August.  I give myself the excuse to take a break, to sleep in, to lounge around. Well, that’s all well and good until I get back home and realize that I may be a little more relaxed, but I am also a little less, well, fit both physically and emotionally to take on the day-to-day.  I personally need exercise - it helps me to clear my head of any frustrations (be they from work or just trying to communicate with my neighbors) and gives me the energy to take on anything that may come. However, after a month (or more, whoops!), I find that every September, I have to sort of start again.  I imagine I am not the only one in this position so here are some tips for getting back at it.

It's a blistering 4^th of July and the temperatures aren't going to drop much any time soon. But I made vichyssoise a few days ago, the perfect antidote and so easy that I felt I must share it to my fellow AWG members sweltering in their un-airconditioned apartments. (If you have air conditioning, please invite us all over for coffee, iced, of course.)

• ·         2 large leeks or 4 slender ones. Slender seems to be what is at the store right now.
• ·         1 medium onion, finely chopped
• ·         3 T butter
• ·         2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed, about 2 cups
• ·         3 cups chicken broth
• ·         Salt and pepper to taste
• Use only the white and palest green parts of the leeks. Leeks can be sandy, but unless you’re buying them from a bio farmer who hasn’t washed them already, it’s usually sufficient to peel away a couple of layers of white and rinse carefully.  Shake them dry, chop into small cubes.
• Cook the chopped leeks and onion in butter, stirring frequently, for about five minutes. Do not brown. Add the potatoes and chicken broth, bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer about 15 minutes until potatoes are tender. Season to your liking, then puree the soup in the blender, the food processor, or with an immersion stick.
• Put it in a refrigerator container, add 1 cup heavy cream, a couple of drops of Tabasco sauce (yes, you can buy Tabasco here), and even a dash of Worcestershire sauce if you like. (This is Craig Claiborne’s suggestion and even though some of his hints have not stood the test of time, I tried this and it was good). Chill the soup thoroughly and enjoy whenever you think it’s too hot to eat a thing.

Craig also kindly gives the pronunciation as "veeshee-swahz."

Raising Awareness for World Refugee Day, June 20, 2018

In the FAWCO community, many of us 'migrated' to another country either for work, love, or adventure .... we did so by choice. Displaced persons/Refugees do not share this privileged experience - most faced life-threatening circumstances forcing them to leave their homes and many continue to endure great hardship.

Our Target Project, Hope Beyond Displacement, seeks to build better futures through education, vocational and leadership training for refugee women and girls in Amman, Jordan. 

The summer issue of FAWCO's Inspiring Women is out, featuring our own Anna Eklund-Cheong! The theme of this issue is "Women of Words and Language." Anna's specialty is haiku, but this issue also features a novelist, a cookbook writer, a journalist, and more women who use the written or spoken word to influence or interpret the world around them. And all of them are members of FAWCO clubs, as are you.

Check out the link here: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/fullscreen/60289784/inspiring-women-summer-2018

Hello Members!

The new EU General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) requires that we receive your Specific Consent to use your personal data. Unless you update your profile preferences, AWG will not be able to continue to communicate with you about AWG activities, news, announcements, event reminds & upcoming membership renewals.

You must update your profile page and consent to our privacy policy, otherwise we cannot continue to communicate with you!

Below is a step-by-step overview to help you through the process of updating your profile. 7yu8

1. Log in to the AWG website. Your name appears on the upper top right of the screen.
Click on your name.

2. You must click on the "Edit profile" button.



3.  The next screen will be the fields of data that you can edit.

4.  Scroll down to the section titled  "A Little About You" to see the blue consent line. (See below)



5. Click on the little box- (not the blue link to the policy) you will see a green check mark pop in.

6. IMPORTANT - scroll back up to the top of the page and click the "Save" button.

If you see a red X on the box, you are not in Edit mode- click the "Edit profile" button.

If you only link to the “Privacy Policy” when you try to consent, don’t click on the blue line, just click on the little box.

Thanks to everyone who came out to our special evening "April in Paris" membership meeting. We had a great time catching up with members, taste testing the blind wine tasting table and raising over 6,000 euros with our "Pampered in Paris" raffle!!

Congrats to all of our raffle prize winners!!